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    I Like this quote I dislike this quote“It was the scariest wave that I had ever ridden, but it was a huge adrenaline rush. I was scared, but I was totally into it. The best part of the whole experience was I knew that I was in total control. All the years of my surfing experience came right to my head and were the center of my attention. I dropped in and drove down the line, and it was the fastest I've ever gone on a surfboard.”

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    I Like this quote I dislike this quote“It takes experience to go out into water like that.”

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    I Like this quote I dislike this quote“My dad was totally into surfing, and he got all of us boys into it.”

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